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Archive for October, 2009

HOW DO SEPTIC TANKS WORK IN OUR GRASS VALLEY HOMES?

Monday, October 26th, 2009

This is some information I found on the El Dorado County home page that I felt could be very helpful to our clients. Please take a look and let me know if you would like more information like this made avaialble on this site.

HOW DO SEPTIC TANKS WORK IN OUR GRASS VALLEY HOMES?

 In the past, wastewater treatment and disposal facilities for homes in Grass Valley with indoor plumbing consisted of buried bottomless containers, or cesspools. Discharge of both solids and liquids to the soils caused the soil pores to clog, and contaminated water entered surface waters and groundwater. Therefore, to protect the soils and reduce public health hazards, septic tanks were installed between the houses and the soil absorption systems. Septic tanks are watertight containers which remove large solids and greases, provide anaerobic digestion of the solids, and storage of the sludge and scum. Septic tanks do not remove large numbers of bacteria and viruses. Septic tanks are constructed of concrete, bricks, clay, or fiberglass. Baffles are placed within the tank to improve solids settling and prevent the scum layer of lightweight solids, fats and greases from floating out of the tank with the effluent. The settled solids are biologically digested by bacteria which live in environments without air (anaerobic bacteria). Some of the products of anaerobic digestion are gases, including methane, carbon dioxide, and hydrogen sulfide, which has an odor similar to that of rotten eggs. The gases are vented from the septic tank through the household plumbing vents. Inorganic and non-biodegradable materials cannot be digested by the microorganisms in the septic tank, and accumulate in the sludge or digested by the microorganisms in the septic tank, and accumulate in the sludge or scum layers. The sludge and scum layers must be removed periodically to prevent the accumulated solids and greases from flowing into the soil absorption system and clogging the soil pores. If washing machines, dishwashers, and garbage disposals are used, the amount of sludge will increase and the septic tank will require frequent cleaning.

This information was pulled from the El Dorado County home page. If you want more information please click here for the full article.

A Simple DIY All Natural Recipe for Unclogging Drains

Monday, October 26th, 2009

A Simple DIY All Natural Recipe for Unclogging Drains in your Grass Valley Home

  • Remove all water from the sink or tub and pour about 1 cup baking soda down the drain.
  • Then pour 1 cup vinegar down the drain, plugging it immediately (if you’re unclogging a double sink, plug both drains).
  • When the bubbles have died down (about 30 minutes), chase them down the drain with some hot water.

If this recipe seems familiar to you, you may have as I did (at one point in your school days) used this recipe to make an erupting volcano for science class.  Baking soda, a base, combined with vinegar, an acid, reacts to form carbon dioxide and sodium acetate—the bubbles that do the scrubbing work inside the drain.  Once drain sludge is dissolved, these all natural, non-toxic ingredients get flushed down the now clog-free drain and will do no harm to your plumbing and or septic tank.

Baking soda and vinegar as you know are natural ingredients preferable to the manufactured chemical sodium hydroxide, also known as caustic soda or lye. Sodium hydroxide is the active ingredient in most grocery store drain cleaners.  While the chemical isn’t too harmful for the environment since it’s broken down by the time it flows into oceans and rivers, it can be harmful to whomever it touches. And it can do a nasty number on the working of your septic tank.

According to the Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry, sodium hydroxide can burn skin. If swallowed, it can cause chest and abdominal pain, and has the potential to lead to death if it severely damages the lungs, tissue, or causes a loss of pulse or shock.

Baking soda and vinegar are common, consumable (though perhaps not together!) ingredients that don’t pose health dangers and are probably already sitting in your kitchen cupboards.

And hey if the home remedies don’t work you can always call ABT and well be right out. 530-272-9120

DIY Electrical testing for your Auburn CA Home

Wednesday, October 14th, 2009

 

DIY Electrical testing for your Auburn CA Home;

If the thought of working on an electrical circuit in your Nevada County home makes you cringe, then investing in a good quality multi-meter, voltmeter, ticker tracer or a neon-light tester should be your first order of business. These testers can be inexpensive and are well worth the investment to help protect you from an electric shock. They can be purchased at your local Grass Valley, Ca hardware store or Auburn, Ca home center.

1. Testers and How They Work

A basic neon light tester consist of a neon light bulb that is attached to two leads used for checking if a circuit is “hot” (electrified)or “dead”(not electrified). When you press these two leads into an outlet, the bulb will light if the circuit is “hot” or on. If it doesn’t light, then the circuit is “dead” or off.

Always check to see if the tester is working properly by checking a circuit that you know is working properly before moving on. To double-check that an outlet is actually off, remove the outlet cover and test the screws on the sides of the outlet. But be sure to be safe, the outlet may still be hot(electric). A good habit to practice is to always assume the circuit is electrified or hot, in other words just don’t touch any bare wire with your hands. You can also plug a lamp or vacuum into the outlet just to put your mind at ease.

2. Outlets and Testing

 To test an electrical outlet in your Grass Valley home do the following. A typical outlet has three holes built into it. The shorter straight slot is the “hot” (electric) lead. The longer straight slot is the “neutral” lead (if it’s wired correctly). The slot that looks like a small circle hole is the ground.

To test the ground, test between the “hot” (electrified) and “ground” slots. If the circuit is working and you have a good “ground” connection, the tester will light up. The tester will also light if you test between the “hot” (electric) and “neutral” slots.

 There are plug-in circuit testers are available that will test your circuit for you via three neon lights. They test for an open neutral, lack of a ground, wires on the wrong terminals, and no power. This is a great inexpensive tool to have in your tool box.

3. Switches and Testing

To test a switch in your Auburn home, remove the cover plate and check from the “hot” (electric) screw on the side of the switch to the bare copper wire (ground) or the metal box. Keep in mind that the box may not be grounded, especially if it’s a plastic box.

4. Testing Light Fixtures

When checking the light fixture wiring in your Grass Valley home, take down the light and using a “tick-tracer”, test the circuit to see if it working. This tester lights when you place it close to a wire that has current flowing through it. Again always double check your testers by testing a known working outlet.

To double-check the circuit, first turn off the electricity to that circuit by turning off the light switch. Now, remove the wire nuts from both the black “hot” wires and the white “neutral” wires. Now with the wires exposed you can use your neon light tester. Separate these sets of wires so that they are not touching one another. If the wires touch and they’re hot, look out sparks will fly.

  Turn the circuit back on and check between the black and white wires with the voltmeter or neon tester. Be careful not to touch the exposed wires with your fingers. The voltmeter should show a reading of around 120 volts. Likewise, the neon tester should light if the circuit is working properly.

   That’s it. But I can’t stress enough the fact that you need to be careful and always assume you’re working with electrified lines. And another thing if you don’t feel comfortable, don’t mess with it. With electricity it’s always better to be safe than sorry or dead. There are times in everyone’s life where its just better to hire a professional. Only you can decide when to hire someone.

If you get in over your head or just don’t want to mess with it, give ABT Plumbing, Electric, Heat & Air a call and we’ll be there to help. 530-272-9120

ABT Plumbing, Electric, Heat & Air serves:  Nevada and Placer County, Grass Valley, Ca. Alta Sierra, Ca. Nevada City, Ca. Penn Valley, Ca. Rough and Ready, Ca. Lake Wildwood, Ca. Smartsville, Ca. Colfax, Auburn, Ca. Lake of the Pines, Ca. Meadow Vista, Ca. Newcastle, Ca. and all places in-between. 

How to Clear a Slow Bathroom Sink Drain in Your Grass Valley Home

Friday, October 9th, 2009

How to Clear a Slow Bathroom Sink Drain in Your Grass Valley Home
So, it’s too late … the drain is completely clogged, your kid left the faucet running and water is cascading down the stairs from one floor to the next. What to do now?

Well, for starters, try not to let the drain get to that point to in the first place. Keep a sharp eye out for signs of a sluggish drain. It’s easier to unclog a slow drain than it is to open a drain that has completely stopped. When the drain is slow, pour scalding water down the pipe to loosen any buildup of grease or soap scum. You’ll need to clean the stopper, pop-up or drain screen. This not for the faint of heart, my wife gags whenever I clean the stopper, get some good rubber glove to stay clean. If this doesn’t locate the problem, then check the other household drains to determine if the clog is only in one sink fixture. If more than one drain is clogged, then there is a clog in the main drain pipe. At which point you may just want to call out a professional plumber, and yeah that would be us at ABT Plumbing, Electric, Heat & Air. 530-272-9120

The first tool most people grab to fight a sink clog is a simple bathroom plunger, and it’s a good tool to have around. Pick a plunger with a large enough suction cup to completely cover the drain and create an airtight seal against the surrounding sink. It should also have a cone on the bottom which can be folded up when you use it for sinks or tubs. Fill the fixture with water to completely cover the suction cup (it may help to coat the rim of the cup with petroleum jelly). Seal off the overflow with a wet sponge help to create a vacuum. Push out any trapped air beneath the cup, then give the plunger 15 to 20 vigorous up-and-down pumping strokes to jolt loose the clog. This may take 3 to 5 times to do the job. Remember that plungers work with both the down and up stroke, so really tug up on it.

If none of this works you could try using a hand snake, but let me tell you form my experience they suck. They take a lot of effort with very little affect. You really need an expensive electric snake to do the job right, so yes once again, call in a professional plumber, ABT Plumbing, Electric, Heat & Air 530-272-9120. Or you may be able to rent one from the rental yard, but it helps if you know how to use it, they can be very dangerous to use, like broken limbs dangerous.

One other thing you can do before the drain gets clogged is use an enzyme drain cleaning product like Pro-Clean. The enzymes digest the organic material and break it down to it basic element. It’s a great environmentally safe product. And if you are on a septic system the enzyme will work their way down into the tank and digest all of the gunk in the septic tank as well.

How to Clear a Toilet.

Monday, October 5th, 2009

Don’t Flush Again
If the toilet doesn’t flush the first time, don’t try to flush it again. This will dump more water from the tank into the bowl, causing the water level to increase and overflow. The toilet bowl will usually start to drain on its own, even though it will be very slow.

Cover Your Hands and the Floor
You want to make sure you are wearing a pair of gloves. Rubber cleaning gloves will work the best, but plain latex gloves these are better than nothing. You’ll also want to cover the floor to minimize the mess. Newspaper will work best for this, as you can just throw it away. Laying down towels that you plan on using again is not advisable.


Plunging
Plunging can be messy as water may splash up from the bowl. This isn’t the most sanitary method, but it’s better than leaving waste material sit in a bowl for any length of time.

Make sure you are using the right kind of plunger. The small suction-cup style plungers that you can buy cheaply are usually not as effective for plunging a toilet. The larger the plunger, the better chance you have of getting the clog with less time and effort. Another thing to remeber about plungers/force cups is they work both ways, they both push the and pull the clog. Push down hard and also pull back hard to get the full function of this useful device.

Snakes
A pipe snake, or auger, can be used if the plunger doesn’t work. Less messy than a plunger, snakes work by feeding the long tube down the drain in the toilet into the plumbing itself, pushing through the clog and somtimes grabbing hold of what ever is down there. You can purchase a small pipe snake inexpensively, or for larger jobs you can rent them.

So that’s it, and if you are unable to get it cleared you can always call us. We’ll show up to save the day. Give us a call 530-272-9120

Should I use a store bought drain cleaner?

Monday, October 5th, 2009

Should I use a store bought drain cleaner?

The first thing you need to know before working on a clogged drain is that the drain cleaners you see advertised on TV or on the supermarket shelves are made of dangerous chemicals that will eat through rubber gloves, skin, certain kinds of pipe, wood and anything else they touch. If their fumes are inhaled, they can cause damage to the lungs, nose and mouth. If they are eaten, they will kill, even in small amounts. Even when they are used “properly”, they can ruin septic systems, pollute groundwater, and destroy pipes. Check the label, they all have a long list of warnings.

For a more healthy and safe alternative, try a natural drain cleaner, such as Pro-Clean, that is made from natually occuring bacteria that will digest and break down organic material in your pipes and septic system, and won’t hurt your drain pipes, the environment, or YOU.

For more information click here or give us a call 530-272-9120

Here is  a list of the towns ABT Plumbing, Electric, Heat & Air serves: Nevada and Placer County, Grass Valley,  Alta Sierra,  Nevada City, Penn Valley,  Rough and Ready, Lake Wildwood, Smartsville, Ca. Colfax, Auburn, Ca. Lake of the Pines, Ca. Meadow Vista, Ca. Newcastle,  and all places in-between.

Tankless Water Heater Tax Credits

Sunday, October 4th, 2009

Water Heater Tax Credit 2009 and 2010

Tankless Water Heater Federal Tax Credit

Energy Efficient Water Heaters can save you up to 30% – maximum of $1500.00 on your taxes in addition to year-round savings on your energy bill for your Auburn,Ca. home. 2009 signifies the return of the federal tax credit for non-solar tankless water heaters under the Energy Policy Act of 2005, which expired at the end of 2007. This successful program was extended under the “Emergency Economic Stabilization Act of 2008“. The act re-establishes tax credits for purchasing and installing energy efficient home improvements, such as a Tankless Water Heater. Improvements made in 2009 will be claimed on your 2009 taxes (filed by April 15, 2010) — use IRS Tax Form 5695 (2009 version) — it will be available late 2009 or early 2010. Improvements made in 2010 will be claimed on your 2010 taxes (filed by April 15, 2011) — use IRS Tax Form 5695. For more information on the bill, check out the U.S. Department of Energy website.

For more information, or to schedual a free quote give us a call; 530-272-9120

ABT Plumbing, Electric, Heat & Air serves both Nevada & Placer countys, Grass Valley, Ca. Alta Sierra, Ca. Nevada City, Ca. Penn Valley, Ca. Rough and Ready, Ca. Lake Wildwood, Ca. Smartsville, Ca. Colfax, Ca. Auburn, Ca. Lake of the Pines, Ca. Meadow Vista, Ca. Newcastle, Ca. and all places in-between.

9 ways to winterize your Grass Valley home Part 3:

Thursday, October 1st, 2009

9 ways to winterize your Grass Valley home  Part 3:

You’ll get a season’s worth of savings and peace of mind by taking a few steps in the fall to get your home ready for cold weather.

 So you’ve pulled your sweaters out of mothballs and found your mittens at the bottom of the coat closet. But what about your house — is it prepared for the cold months ahead?

You’ll be a lot less comfortable in the coming months if you haven’t girded Home Sweet Home for Old Man Winter.

With the help of several experts, we’ve boiled down your autumn to-do list to 10 easy tips:

1. Clean those gutters  
Once the leaves fall, remove them and other debris from your home’s gutters — by hand, by scraper or spatula, and finally by a good hose rinse — so that winter’s rain and melting snow can drain. Clogged drains can form ice dams, in which water backs up, freezes and causes water to seep into the house, the Insurance Information Institute says. 
As you’re hosing out your gutters, look for leaks and misaligned pipes. Also, make sure the downspouts are carrying water away from the house’s foundation, where it could cause flooding or other water damage.

“The rule of thumb is that water should be at least 10 feet away from the house,” says Michael Broili, the director of the Well Home Program for the Phinney Neighborhood Association, a nationally recognized neighborhood group in Seattle.

2. Block those leaks
One of the best ways to winterize your home is to simply block obvious leaks around your house, both inside and out, experts say. The average American home has leaks that amount to a nine-square-foot hole in the wall, according to EarthWorks Group.

First, find the leaks: On a breezy day, walk around inside holding a lit incense stick to the most common drafty areas: recessed lighting, window and door frames, electrical outlets.

Then, buy door sweeps to close spaces under exterior doors, and caulk or apply tacky rope caulk to those drafty spots, says Danny Lipford, host of the nationally syndicated TV show “Today’s Homeowner.” Outlet gaskets can easily be installed in electrical outlets that share a home’s outer walls, where cold air often enters.

Outside, seal leaks with weather-resistant caulk. For brick areas, use masonry sealer, which will better stand up to freezing and thawing. “Even if it’s a small crack, it’s worth sealing up,” Lipford says. “It also discourages any insects from entering your home.”

3. Insulate yourself
“Another thing that does cost a little money — but boy, you do get the money back quick — is adding insulation to the existing insulation in the attic,” says Lipford. “Regardless of the climate conditions you live in, in the (U.S.) you need a minimum of 12 inches of insulation in your attic.”

Don’t clutter your brain with R-values or measuring tape, though. Here’s Lipford’s rule of thumb on whether you need to add insulation: “If you go into the attic and you can see the ceiling joists you know you don’t have enough, because a ceiling joist is at most 10 or 11 inches.”

A related tip: If you’re layering insulation atop other insulation, don’t use the kind that has “kraft face” finish (i.e., a paper backing). It acts as a vapor barrier, Lipford explains, and therefore can cause moisture problems in the insulation.

4. Check the furnace
First, turn your furnace on now, to make sure it’s even working, before the coldest weather descends. A strong, odd, short-lasting smell is natural when firing up the furnace in the autumn; simply open windows to dissipate it. But if the smell lasts a long time, shut down the furnace and call a professional.

It’s a good idea to have furnaces cleaned and tuned annually. Call ABT and we can help 530-272-9120

Throughout the winter you should change the furnace filters regularly (check them monthly). A dirty filter impedes air flow, reduces efficiency and could even cause a fire in an extreme case. Toss out the dirty fiberglass filters; reusable electrostatic or electronic filters can be washed.

5. Get your ducts in a row
According to the U.S. Department of Energy, a home with central heating can lose up to 60% of its heated air before that air reaches the vents if ductwork is not well-connected and insulated, or if it must travel through unheated spaces. That’s a huge amount of wasted money, not to mention a chilly house. (Check out this audit tool for other ideas on how to save on your energy bills this winter.) Ducts aren’t always easy to see, but you can often find them exposed in the attic, the basement and crawlspaces. Repair places where pipes are pinched, which impedes flow of heated air to the house, and fix gaps with a metal-backed tape (duct tape actually doesn’t stand up to the job over time). Give us a ABT a call for your furnace needs

6. Face your windows
Now, of course, is the time to take down the window screens and put up storm windows, which provide an extra layer of protection and warmth for the home. Storm windows are particularly helpful if you have old, single-pane glass windows. But if you don’t have storm windows, and your windows are leaky or drafty, “They need to be updated to a more efficient window,” says Lipford.

Of course, windows are pricey. Budget to replace them a few at a time, and in the meantime, buy a window insulator kit, Lipford and Broili recommend. Basically, the kit is plastic sheeting that’s affixed to a window’s interior with double-stick tape. A hair dryer is then used to shrink-wrap the sheeting onto the window. (It can be removed in the spring.) “It’s temporary and it’s not pretty, but it’s inexpensive (about $4 a window) and it’s extremely effective,” says Lipford.

7. Don’t forget the chimney
Ideally, spring is the time to think about your chimney, because “chimney sweeps are going crazy right now, as you might have guessed,” says Ashley Eldridge, director of education for the Chimney Safety Institute of America.

That said, don’t put off your chimney needs before using your fireplace, Eldridge advises. “A common myth is that a chimney needs to be swept every year,” says Eldridge. Not true. But a chimney should at least be inspected before use each year, he adds. “I’ve seen tennis balls and ducks in chimneys,” he says.

Ask for a Level 1 inspection, in which the professional examines the readily accessible portions of the chimney, Eldridge says. “Most certified chimney sweeps include a Level 1 service with a sweep,” he adds.

Woodstoves are a different beast, however, cautions Eldridge. They should be swept more than once a year. A general rule of thumb is that a cleaning should be performed for every ¼ inch of creosote, “anywhere that it’s found.” Why? “If it’s ash, then it’s primarily lye — the same stuff that was once used to make soap, and it’s very acidic.” It can cause mortar and the metal damper to rot, Eldridge says.

Another tip: Buy a protective cap for your chimney, with a screen, advises Eldridge. “It’s probably the single easiest protection” because it keeps out foreign objects (birds, tennis balls) as well as rain that can mix with the ash and eat away at the fireplace’s walls. He advises buying based on durability, not appearance.

One other reminder: To keep out cold air, fireplace owners should keep their chimney’s damper closed when the fireplace isn’t in use. And for the same reason, woodstove owners should have glass doors on their stoves, and keep them closed when the stove isn’t in use.

Check out CSIA’S Web site for a list of certified chimney sweeps in your area.

8. Reverse that fan
“Reversing your ceiling fan is a small tip that people don’t often think of,” says Lipford. By reversing its direction from the summer operation, the fan will push warm air downward and force it to recirculate, keeping you more comfortable. (Here’s how you know the fan is ready for winter: As you look up, the blades should be turning clockwise, says Lipford.)

9. Wrap those pipes
A burst pipe caused by a winter freeze is a nightmare. Prevent it before Jack Frost sets his grip: Before freezing nights hit, make certain that the water to your hose bibs is shut off inside your house (via a turnoff valve), and that the lines are drained, says Broili. In climes such as Portland, Ore., or Seattle, where freezing nights

ABT Plumbing, Electric, Heat & Air serves: Nevada and Placer County, Grass Valley, Ca. Alta Sierra, Ca. Nevada City, Ca. Penn Valley, Ca. Rough and Ready, Ca. Lake Wildwood, Ca. Smartsville, Ca. Colfax, Auburn, Ca. Lake of the Pines, Ca. Meadow Vista, Ca. Newcastle, Ca. and all places in-between.


Our Primary Service Areas and Specialties:

Auburn, CA Plumbing     |     Auburn, CA Electrical     |     Auburn, CA Heat & Air

Grass Valley Plumbing     |     Grass Valley Electrical     |     Grass Valley Heat & Air

Penn Valley Plumbing     |     Penn Valley Electrical     |     Penn Valley Heat & Air

Click here for a list of all the towns and cities in our service area.

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