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Archive for the ‘Getting Ready for Winter’ Category

ABT Was Quoted in The Union

Saturday, December 12th, 2009
Sunday’s snowstorm and subsequent hard freeze Monday and Tuesday nights took their toll on western Nevada County, with burst pipes, multiple vehicle accidents and inconveniences both minor and major.

But for some, icy roads sent business through the roof.

“We had all we could handle for about 20 hours a day,” said owner Kent Kilroy of Kilroy’s Towing.

Most common were calls from people sliding off their driveways, especially on the steep slopes in Alta Sierra, he said.

And when accidents did happen, auto body shops got the calls.

“We’ve had a lot of tow-ins and cars buried in the snow for a day,” said Nancy Maldonado, an estimator at Chris’ Collision Repair in Grass Valley.

The shop’s staff has seen the big accidents in the past few days, but is expecting business to stay steady — most people who had minor fender benders won’t bring the cars in until the roads improve.

Tuesday saw “lots of spinouts in the snow and ice, but nothing major,” said CHP Officer Eric Wagner. While the highways were clear Wednesday, many of the side roads still were problematic, with patches of black ice, said CHP spokeswoman Heather Blancarte.

“People are still driving way too fast,” she said. “Increase your distance and slow down.”

The county’s schools reopened Wednesday, despite the icy conditions. Many buses ran late Wednesday morning, leaving some students complaining about their wait in the bitter cold and some parents frustrated at the delays.

“It was slow going,” said Durham School Services operations supervisor Bill Locke. “There were some roads we couldn’t get down, but the county did a good job of sanding. We were running about a half-hour to 45 minutes behind on most routes.”

Some roads in the Wolf Creek and Dog Bar areas were covered in 6 to 8 inches of ice, with Cascade Shores being another problem area, Locke said. Communication problems between dispatch and bus drivers are typical for the more mountainous areas of the county where reception is spotty, he added.

“As ugly as it could have been, it was a pretty good day,” Locke said.

The emergency room at Sierra Nevada Memorial Hospital and the waiting room at Yuba Docs in Grass Valley saw a jump in injuries due to people slipping on the ice.

Between 25 percent and 30 percent of emergency room patients seen Tuesday had injured themselves in a fall, hospital staff reported. At Yuba Docs, staff saw more “bumps on the head” and even some fractures, they said.

 

The cost of a cold snap

It costs about half a million dollars annually to remove snow on western Nevada County roads, plus about $250,000 to maintain county roads near Truckee, according to Nevada County Public Works Director Doug Farrell.

The county employs a road maintenance crew of 30 and assigns them into two 12-hour shifts for around-the-clock snow removal when big storms hit.

Nevada Joint Union High School District already has used the two snow days it schedules into its annual budget. The district’s concern is possibly having to foot the bill if the winter brings more snow days.

In that case, the district will apply for a waiver from the state to avoid potentially costly make-up days.

But safety, not financial savings, comes first, Superintendent Ralf Swenson said.

“We would never let that influence our decision on whether or not we’ll have school,” he said.

 

Preparation pays off

B & C Hardware has been selling ice-melt products as fast as they could stock it, said Jeannie Nettles, who works in inventory control at the store. When ice melt sold out, they started selling lawn fertilizer, which warms itself, to thaw driveways and walkways.

All other seasonal merchandise has been flying off the shelves, too, Nettles said. That includes shovels, windshield de-icers, pipe insulation and lantern oil for power failures.

Hills Flat Lumber Company General Manager Jeff Pardini said a lot of people stopped in to pick up Pex Piping, a polymer pipe that doesn’t burst like metal piping. People install it where they have exposed pipes and it is getting more popular.

Customers also are picking up things like snow shovels, sand, flashlights, fire-starter logs and heat insulating tape.

“Most people are procrastinators; they didn’t come to get supplies until after (the storm),” Pardini said.

For those who didn’t wrap their pipes, Andrew Twidwell of ABT Plumbing was on call. He said he only sees freezes this bad every five to 10 years.

“We’ve got a lot of work with broken pipes, and we’re still reeling from that,” he said. “We’re doing triage — just stopping the bleeding and getting people back online.”

His advice to keep ice plugs from developing inside pipes: Leave a faucet on, and know where the water shut-off valve is to avoid a flood if a pipe does break.

To contact Staff Writer Kyle Magin, e-mail kmagin@theunion.com or call 477-4239. To contact Staff Writer Liz Kellar, e-mail lkellar@theunion.com or call 477-4229. To contact Staff Writer Michelle Rindels, e-mail mrindels@theunion.com or call (530) 477-4247.

Getting Ready For Winter

Wednesday, November 18th, 2009

What kind of wood should I burn?

  • It does not matter what kind of wood you burn: as long as it is really, truly seasoned. In the case of hardwoods, especially oak, they must be seasoned for over one full year! That means last year’s wood – NOT this years wood! If you’re wondering about which wood is really the best, or what causes the least creosote to build up, the answer is the same! Properly seasoned wood produces the most heat, and produces the least creosote! It’s not the kind of wood you burn that makes the difference, but whether or not the wood is seasoned. Firewood that hasn’t been split for over a year isn’t worth a darn! On the other hand, dry well seasoned wood is just great! Seasoned wood burns hot and clean!
     
  • If you have trouble starting your fire, or if you have trouble keeping your fire going, you are probably using this years wood – which means that it’s not seasoned. Unseasoned, or green wood, is extremely frustrating and disappointing. If wood is not properly seasoned it will be hard to light. It will keep going out. It will smolder. It won’t put out heat. It just burns poorly and inefficiently. It is also the moisture in wood which causes creosote to build up at an accelerated rate. One fresh-cut cord of oak may contain enough water to nearly fill six, 55 gallon drums. The moisture content in the wood determines how much heat the fire puts out, and how much creosote will build up in your chimney.
     
  • If you are going spend hundreds of dollars on firewood, it’s essential to KNOW that the wood you are buying REALLY IS seasoned! Seasoned wood looks  dark, or gray when compared to green wood  – but if you split a piece of seasoned wood – it’s WHITE on the inside. It’s brittle, or gnarly. It has cracks running through each piece, and a lot of little cracks on the inner rings. Unseasoned wood has a wet, fresh looking center, with lighter (“drier-looking”) wood near the edges or ends which have been exposed since cutting. When firewood is very fresh, the bark will be tightly attached. Avoid these hassles at all costs! When you get cold, you’ll be miserable if your firewood does not produce the heat you need. Only well seasoned wood produces pleasant, trouble free heat.
  • Depending upon when it was cut down, softwoods like fir or pine might be dry enough in just one year to burn nicely. But, a year is not enough for hardwoods: especially oak!  As far as quality is concerned, madrone is unquestionably the best wood!  Madrone is extremely dense, HARD wood. It burns extremely HOT, and it burns for a long time. Next, comes live oak, eucalyptus, walnut, and then all other oaks*. Fir is probably the most trouble free wood you can buy overall. But, if you read further down you’ll see it’s advantages and disadvantages. *White oak is troublesome wood. Though it is often mixed in, it’s a disappointing hassle. Remember that piece of wood that just NEVER seems to burn up? That’s white oak. Stay away from large quantities green wood, and accept as little white oak as possible – though it is difficult to avoid it entirely.
  • DO NOT cover your wood with a tarp …. or you will prohibit evaporation! Use a shed, or buy a prefab wood crib.
  • What REALLY causes creosote to build up? Creosote is the condensation of unburned, flammable particulates present in the exhausting flue gas (smoke). The actual cause of creosote condensation, is the surface temperature of the flue in which the flue gas comes in contact. Like hot breath on a cold mirror, if the surface temperature of the flue is cool, it will cause the vaporized carbon particles in the flue gas (smoke) to solidify. This condensation is creosote build-up. If the wood you are using is rain logged, or green, the fire will tend to smolder. Wet wood causes the whole system to be cool, and inefficient. But, dry wood means a hot fire! A hot fire means a hot flue, and a hot flue means much less creosote.
     
  • Back in the early 1980’s, tests were conducted to discover which kind of wood created the most creosote in a regular “open” fireplace. The results were surprising. Contrary to popular opinion, the hardwood’s, like oak and madrone, created MORE creosote than the softwoods, like fir and pine. The reason for this, is that if the softwoods are dry, they create a hotter, more intense fire. The draft created by the hotter fire moves the air up the chimney faster! Because it is moving faster, the flue gas does not have as much time to condense as creosote inside the chimney. Also, because the flue gas is hotter: it does not cool down to the condensation point as quickly. On the contrary, the dense hardwood’s tend to smolder more, so their flue gas temperature is cooler. Thus, more creosote is able to condense on the surface of the flue. So, saying that “fir builds up more creosote than oak” just isn’t true! It is a misunderstanding to think that it’s the pitch in wood which causes creosote. It’s not the pitch that is the problem, it’s the water IN the pitch. Once the water in the wood has evaporated, that pitch becomes high octane fuel! When dry, softwoods burn extremely hot!
     
  • Which kind of wood is better? That depends on what you want. If you are a first time fire-burner, or if you only want to burn a couple dozen fires a year: definitely go with a DRY softwood, like fir. Your odds for being happy are infinitely higher with fir, especially if you are just now buying wood for this year.  The fresh aroma of fir creates a lovely holiday ambiance! Fir seasons quickly, and when it is dry it is truly delightful, trouble free wood!  It’s easy to get going. It smells great. It’s easy to split for kindling. It creates BIG, friendly, luxurious fires! But, it doesn’t last as long as oak or madrone! You must feed a stove more frequently to keep it going with fir, and there is no guarantee that there will still be live hot coals in the morning. Cord for cord the hardwood’s may be a better deal.
  • Hardwood’s, like madrone, live oak, eucalyptus, walnut, black oak etc., are the choice of the serious fire burner. You may pay $300 for a cord of oak, and only $250 for a cord of fir. BUT, because the oak is more dense, it weighs much more than the fir. So you actually get more for your money with hardwood. In fact, you may get almost twice the fire for the money! Because hardwoods are denser, they provide more available fuel in the same space. So, hardwoods burn longer. If hardwoods are properly seasoned, they do burn very hot. (Look for oak mixed with madrone.) The fuel available in hardwood enables stoves or inserts to sustain high temperatures for significantly longer periods. Also, unless the stove is shut down tight, hardwoods may keep a hot live coal bed for days. So as a rule, airtight stoves, or inserts, perform best with dry hardwoods. It is, however, always important to have a large supply of really good kindling – because hardwood is difficult to start. Having a quantity of fir on hand is great source of good kindling.
  • When buying firewood, remember that first and foremost, it must be properly seasoned. The best way to get seasoned wood is to buy THIS years wood for NEXT year! For a scrupulous first time wood buyer, a moisture tester may be a good investment. Wood sellers will often tell you that even though this wood was split this year, it will be just fine. Except in the cases of fir or pine, that is not true. Look for gray, or darkened, brittle wood that has a lot of cracks in the inner rings. Seasoned wood looks gray, or dark and dingy because it has been sitting sitting in the sun, drying, and collecting dust for a while. But, if you split it: it’s dry and very WHITE inside! Unseasoned wood has the fresh clean look of new lumber at a building supply store. Unseasoned wood  has that same fresh look on the INSIDE when it’s split. Though seasoned wood is darker on the outside, it’s bone white on the inside.
     
  • Once wood gets over 4-5 years old, it does start to deteriorate, so the best wood is 2-3 years seasoned.  If you find good dry wood of any kind, you will really enjoy your fireplace! But, if you get stuck with green wood, you will be one very frustrated wood burner. Most wood for sale is “this years” wood. If you get serious about wood burning, you must always think one full year ahead! You should always buy this years wood for for NEXT year. Good buys of seasoned wood do come along, but they are often not advertised, because the serious wood burners already know where to go. If you are a first time wood burner, either buy dry, split fir, or hunt down really dry, cracking hardwood. You won’t be sorry if you spend a little more money – just to make sure that you get trouble free firewood.

23,600 Reasons to Have Your Grass Valley Chimney Serviced

Monday, November 2nd, 2009

So this is some interesting information I found on the net that I felt I should share. ABT dos not service chimneys, but we highly recommend that if you have a wood burning fireplace or stove that you should have it checked out each season.

The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, reports that some 23,600 residential fires in the 50 states were related to solid fuel appliances and equipment in 1996. An additional 5,500 fires were attributed to chimneys and chimney connectors serving heating systems burning liquid and other fuels. As a result of these fires, 130 people died, 230 people were injured, and total property losses were set at more than $184.4 million. In addition there were a minimum of 119 deaths from carbon monoxide and at least 4,700 “injuries” reported for the same time frame, though most estimates range much higher. The root cause of most of these losses is that most U.S. homeowners are unaware that chimneys are an integral part of a home heating system and that they require regular evaluation and maintenance. In a great many European countries – including Sweden, Norway, Denmark, Finland and Germany – chimney-fire damage statistics have been reduced to negligible numbers because national coalitions of government, insurance companies, fire and building officials, and chimney sweeps have developed tough regulations mandating regularly scheduled chimney inspections and cleaning. The citizens of those countries understand the hazards of unmaintained chimneys, and their chimney sweeps are regular members of their home safety team. Most homeowners in the U.S. and Canada, however, seem to have little working knowledge of chimney and venting systems. This situation is complicated by the fact that faults, damage and problems rarely visible to the casual observer. In fact, people who will quickly replace a faulty automobile exhaust system because of the hazard it presents will allow their home’s exhaust system the chimney or vent – to go unchecked and unmaintained for years. The threat of chimney fires and unsafe indoor air quality conditions can be greatly reduced, perhaps even eliminated, if homeowners only understood that chimneys are active home operation systems which require regular maintenance. The Chimney Sweep’s Role The primary job of a chimney service professional is to aid in the prevention of fires related to fireplaces, woodstoves, gas, oil and coal heating systems and the chimneys that serve them. Wood burning heating systems, in particular, require careful monitoring and skillful operation. Chimney sweeps install, clean and maintain these systems, evaluate their performance, prescribe changes to improve their performance, and educate the consumer about their safe and efficient operation. The basic task of a chimney sweep is to clean chimneys. Cleaning means removing the hazard of accumulated and highly combustible creosote produced by burning wood and wood products. It means eliminating the build-up of soot in coal-and oil-fired systems, it means getting rid of bird and animal nests, leaves and other debris that may create a hazard by blocking the flow of emissions from a home heating appliance. In doing their primary job, sweeps also function as on-the-job fire prevention specialists. They are constantly on the lookout for unsafe conditions that can cause home fires or threaten residents with dangerous or unhealthy indoor air quality. How to Choose a Chimney Sweep: What a Homeowner Should Know The chimney service trade is not regulated, nor are chimney sweeps licensed in most states. Further, opening a chimney service business requires a relatively small capital investment. Thus, virtually anyone – without education, training, experience or even a working knowledge of proper tools or equipment – can become a chimney sweep. As a result, many ill-equipped, ill-prepared individuals are free to offer their “services” to homeowners. in some cases, these individuals will take advantage of learning opportunities and become competent, qualified sweeps. In other cases, they will continue along the same path they started on, offering incompetent service and, in some cases providing trusting homeowners with a false sense of well-being. For this very reason, a number of states are currently considering license requirements for chimney sweeps. As precursors to state licensing, some municipalities currently license chimney sweeps and in most of those, the criteria for licensing is the CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep credential. The CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep Program The CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep Program is acknowledged by a growing number of industry organizations, insurance underwriters, local, state and federal agencies and courts as the measure of a chimney sweep’s knowledge about the evaluation and maintenance of chimney and venting systems. CSIA Certified Chimney Sweeps keep abreast of the current developments and the technology of their trade. They are knowledgeable about the most recent National Fire Protection Association standards as well as the specifics of state and local codes covering their geographic area. In order to ensure a verifiable level of expertise within the trade, the Chimney Safety Institute of America administers the CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep Program. It is an educational and testing program designed to assess a chimney sweep’s knowledge of: 1.technical issues related to chimney construction and dynamics 2.solid fuel appliances and EPA requirements 3.the physics of woodburning and creosote formation 4.codes, clearances and standards 5.the practices and techniques of the trade. Throughout most of the 50 states, the homeowner’s best gauge of a chimney serviceperson’s knowledge is the CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep credential. C.S.I.A. Certified Sweeps are tested every three years, and display a dated, photo-ID badge. A good way to be sure the sweep servicing your chimney is currently Certified is to check the search engine on this website or call the CSIA office. These sweeps must also sign a CSIA Chimney Sweep Code of Ethics to help insure homeowners get not only a knowledgable sweep, but an honest one. Don’t settle for less! If you are planning to hire a chimney sweep to inspect, evaluate or clean your chimney system(s) – here is a checklist of the things you should know about the person or company you are about to hire: ■How long has the company been in business ■Does the company offer current references? (Don’t hesitate to check them.) ■Does the company have unresolved complaints filed with your city or state consumer protection agency or the Better Business Bureau ■Does the company or individual carry a valid business liability insurance policy to protect your home and furnishings against accidents ■Is the company a member of the National Chimney Sweep Guild (provides access to ongoing education) ■Is he or she a CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep? The C.S.I.A. Certified Chimney Sweep tm credential is the hallmark of excellence among chimney service professionals and among homeowners and related industry professionals who understand the quality and value it represents. Homeowners should be aware that there is only one legitimate national certification program for the chimney service industry and that is the CSIA program. Those who have earned the CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep credential have demonstrated their commitment to their industry, to fire prevention, and to the clientele they serve. The Chimney Safety Institute of America is a non profit, tax-exempt educational institution dedicated to chimney and venting system safety. CSIA is committed to the elimination of residential chimney fires, carbon monoxide intrusion and other chimney-related hazards that result in the loss of lives and property. To achieve its goals, CSIA devotes its resources to educating the public, chimney service professionals and other fire prevention specialists about the prevention and correction of chimney and venting system hazards. Reprinted with permission from the Chimney Safety Institute of America, www.csia.org

How to Install Heat Tape on the Pipes of your Grass Valley Home.

Monday, November 2nd, 2009

Installing heat tape on your pipes during the winter months can save you hundreds of dollars from burst water lines to flooded homes in Grass Valley. These simple steps will help protect your exposed pipes during winter and help prevent a pipe from bursting in your Grass Valley home.

 

 

Step 1.   Purchase more heat tape than you think you need. The last thing you want to realize is that you don’t have enough tape when you are almost finished with the job. Measure your exposed pipes and make sure to buy a little bit extra. You can find heat tape at all your local Grass Valley hardware stores.

Step 2.   Place the heat tape around the pipes. You can either lay it in a straight line ( my personal recomendation) or you can wrap it like the handle on a baseball bat. If you plan to wrap it, make sure to calculate in enough length to accommodate the wrapping.

Step 3.   Protect the heat tape. Even though the tape will protect your pipes form bursting, nothing is protecting the tape itself. It is generally a good idea to protect it with insulation this will help keep the heat around the pipe.

Step 4.   Plug in the tape and set the thermostat if installed. Make sure to use the heat tape only when you need to. If the temperature is above freezing then you can unplug your heat tape.

That’s all there is to it. This is a great way to keep all those exposed pipes in your Grass Valley home from bursting. If you have any comments, please leave them here. If you need any help or would like us to come out and install it for you, give us a call at 530-272-9120.

9 ways to winterize your Grass Valley home Part 3:

Thursday, October 1st, 2009

9 ways to winterize your Grass Valley home  Part 3:

You’ll get a season’s worth of savings and peace of mind by taking a few steps in the fall to get your home ready for cold weather.

 So you’ve pulled your sweaters out of mothballs and found your mittens at the bottom of the coat closet. But what about your house — is it prepared for the cold months ahead?

You’ll be a lot less comfortable in the coming months if you haven’t girded Home Sweet Home for Old Man Winter.

With the help of several experts, we’ve boiled down your autumn to-do list to 10 easy tips:

1. Clean those gutters  
Once the leaves fall, remove them and other debris from your home’s gutters — by hand, by scraper or spatula, and finally by a good hose rinse — so that winter’s rain and melting snow can drain. Clogged drains can form ice dams, in which water backs up, freezes and causes water to seep into the house, the Insurance Information Institute says. 
As you’re hosing out your gutters, look for leaks and misaligned pipes. Also, make sure the downspouts are carrying water away from the house’s foundation, where it could cause flooding or other water damage.

“The rule of thumb is that water should be at least 10 feet away from the house,” says Michael Broili, the director of the Well Home Program for the Phinney Neighborhood Association, a nationally recognized neighborhood group in Seattle.

2. Block those leaks
One of the best ways to winterize your home is to simply block obvious leaks around your house, both inside and out, experts say. The average American home has leaks that amount to a nine-square-foot hole in the wall, according to EarthWorks Group.

First, find the leaks: On a breezy day, walk around inside holding a lit incense stick to the most common drafty areas: recessed lighting, window and door frames, electrical outlets.

Then, buy door sweeps to close spaces under exterior doors, and caulk or apply tacky rope caulk to those drafty spots, says Danny Lipford, host of the nationally syndicated TV show “Today’s Homeowner.” Outlet gaskets can easily be installed in electrical outlets that share a home’s outer walls, where cold air often enters.

Outside, seal leaks with weather-resistant caulk. For brick areas, use masonry sealer, which will better stand up to freezing and thawing. “Even if it’s a small crack, it’s worth sealing up,” Lipford says. “It also discourages any insects from entering your home.”

3. Insulate yourself
“Another thing that does cost a little money — but boy, you do get the money back quick — is adding insulation to the existing insulation in the attic,” says Lipford. “Regardless of the climate conditions you live in, in the (U.S.) you need a minimum of 12 inches of insulation in your attic.”

Don’t clutter your brain with R-values or measuring tape, though. Here’s Lipford’s rule of thumb on whether you need to add insulation: “If you go into the attic and you can see the ceiling joists you know you don’t have enough, because a ceiling joist is at most 10 or 11 inches.”

A related tip: If you’re layering insulation atop other insulation, don’t use the kind that has “kraft face” finish (i.e., a paper backing). It acts as a vapor barrier, Lipford explains, and therefore can cause moisture problems in the insulation.

4. Check the furnace
First, turn your furnace on now, to make sure it’s even working, before the coldest weather descends. A strong, odd, short-lasting smell is natural when firing up the furnace in the autumn; simply open windows to dissipate it. But if the smell lasts a long time, shut down the furnace and call a professional.

It’s a good idea to have furnaces cleaned and tuned annually. Call ABT and we can help 530-272-9120

Throughout the winter you should change the furnace filters regularly (check them monthly). A dirty filter impedes air flow, reduces efficiency and could even cause a fire in an extreme case. Toss out the dirty fiberglass filters; reusable electrostatic or electronic filters can be washed.

5. Get your ducts in a row
According to the U.S. Department of Energy, a home with central heating can lose up to 60% of its heated air before that air reaches the vents if ductwork is not well-connected and insulated, or if it must travel through unheated spaces. That’s a huge amount of wasted money, not to mention a chilly house. (Check out this audit tool for other ideas on how to save on your energy bills this winter.) Ducts aren’t always easy to see, but you can often find them exposed in the attic, the basement and crawlspaces. Repair places where pipes are pinched, which impedes flow of heated air to the house, and fix gaps with a metal-backed tape (duct tape actually doesn’t stand up to the job over time). Give us a ABT a call for your furnace needs

6. Face your windows
Now, of course, is the time to take down the window screens and put up storm windows, which provide an extra layer of protection and warmth for the home. Storm windows are particularly helpful if you have old, single-pane glass windows. But if you don’t have storm windows, and your windows are leaky or drafty, “They need to be updated to a more efficient window,” says Lipford.

Of course, windows are pricey. Budget to replace them a few at a time, and in the meantime, buy a window insulator kit, Lipford and Broili recommend. Basically, the kit is plastic sheeting that’s affixed to a window’s interior with double-stick tape. A hair dryer is then used to shrink-wrap the sheeting onto the window. (It can be removed in the spring.) “It’s temporary and it’s not pretty, but it’s inexpensive (about $4 a window) and it’s extremely effective,” says Lipford.

7. Don’t forget the chimney
Ideally, spring is the time to think about your chimney, because “chimney sweeps are going crazy right now, as you might have guessed,” says Ashley Eldridge, director of education for the Chimney Safety Institute of America.

That said, don’t put off your chimney needs before using your fireplace, Eldridge advises. “A common myth is that a chimney needs to be swept every year,” says Eldridge. Not true. But a chimney should at least be inspected before use each year, he adds. “I’ve seen tennis balls and ducks in chimneys,” he says.

Ask for a Level 1 inspection, in which the professional examines the readily accessible portions of the chimney, Eldridge says. “Most certified chimney sweeps include a Level 1 service with a sweep,” he adds.

Woodstoves are a different beast, however, cautions Eldridge. They should be swept more than once a year. A general rule of thumb is that a cleaning should be performed for every ¼ inch of creosote, “anywhere that it’s found.” Why? “If it’s ash, then it’s primarily lye — the same stuff that was once used to make soap, and it’s very acidic.” It can cause mortar and the metal damper to rot, Eldridge says.

Another tip: Buy a protective cap for your chimney, with a screen, advises Eldridge. “It’s probably the single easiest protection” because it keeps out foreign objects (birds, tennis balls) as well as rain that can mix with the ash and eat away at the fireplace’s walls. He advises buying based on durability, not appearance.

One other reminder: To keep out cold air, fireplace owners should keep their chimney’s damper closed when the fireplace isn’t in use. And for the same reason, woodstove owners should have glass doors on their stoves, and keep them closed when the stove isn’t in use.

Check out CSIA’S Web site for a list of certified chimney sweeps in your area.

8. Reverse that fan
“Reversing your ceiling fan is a small tip that people don’t often think of,” says Lipford. By reversing its direction from the summer operation, the fan will push warm air downward and force it to recirculate, keeping you more comfortable. (Here’s how you know the fan is ready for winter: As you look up, the blades should be turning clockwise, says Lipford.)

9. Wrap those pipes
A burst pipe caused by a winter freeze is a nightmare. Prevent it before Jack Frost sets his grip: Before freezing nights hit, make certain that the water to your hose bibs is shut off inside your house (via a turnoff valve), and that the lines are drained, says Broili. In climes such as Portland, Ore., or Seattle, where freezing nights

ABT Plumbing, Electric, Heat & Air serves: Nevada and Placer County, Grass Valley, Ca. Alta Sierra, Ca. Nevada City, Ca. Penn Valley, Ca. Rough and Ready, Ca. Lake Wildwood, Ca. Smartsville, Ca. Colfax, Auburn, Ca. Lake of the Pines, Ca. Meadow Vista, Ca. Newcastle, Ca. and all places in-between.

Getting Your Auburn Home Ready for Winter Part 1

Saturday, September 19th, 2009

Getting Your Home Ready For Winter, Part 1:

Safety first.

Inside your Nevada County home, the winter cold can be more hazardous than summer heat, because heating a home can be done in so many different (and potentially dangerous) ways; wood fireplace, gas fireplace, radiant heat, electric heat, oil or gas furnace, boiler, even leaving open an oven! By the way do not, I repeat, do not use an oven to heat your home, it could kill you. Conversely, there are few ways to cool air temperature; you can either circulate the air, pump in cool air (air conditioning) or pull out warm air (heat pumps).

Turning on your furnace for the first time after months of inactivity is often a shock. It can literally be a shock to your heating system, and it might even be a shocking experience when you get your first heating bill! But there are a few common sense things you can do to get your heating system ready for winter. And, take it from a Grass Valley heating tech who visits a variety of homes every day, most people do not adequately prepare their home for the peak winter months. Here is some advice to consider before the winter sets in.

It’s highly recommended to have a fire extinguisher next to your furnace, fireplace or heating system at all times, especially when turning on the system for the first time.

Turn your furnace on now.

Don’t wait until it’s freezing outside to see if the system works. Do it now. No, really… I mean right now. Go ahead, I’ll wait :-)

Got it switched on? Good. Now stop and immediately check your common senses.

1. Smell: Does it smell like something is burning? If so, first check to be sure there is not an actual fire or smoke coming from the heating system. If there is, turn the system off immediately (you have that fire extinguisher, right?) Put out any flames or get out and call 911. If there’s not a fire, wait and see if the burning smell subsides. If not, this is a sign that the system needs to be tuned-up. Call ABT and we’ll be right out 530-272-9120

2. Listen: Does it sound like the system is struggling? Is the noise level or airflow excessive? This is also a sign that the furnace needs to be tuned-up.

3. Feel: Feel the ducts and walls. Are there any vibration? Do you feel any air moving like an air leak from the ducts? If so, I recommend a performance inspection/tune up to identify the cause.

4. Look: Check your carbon monoxide detectors readings. You do have a carbon monoxide detector, don’t you? If the carbon monoxide alarm goes off or if the reading is above 30, turn the heating system off immediately and call ABT for a furnace Performance Inspection. This is a sign that there could be a potentially hazardous condition. Open all the windows to air out the house and do not turn the heat on again until it is checked by a professional heating technician. You should also exit the home until the reading falls below 30.

 

5. Look again: Have you replaced the air filter lately? Your filter should be replaced monthly to help keep your indoor air healthy and clean but also it will save you money on your heating bill. A clogged air filter can cost you some serious money on your energy bill.
After you’ve tested your heating system and followed your common senses, you should have a pretty good idea if the system is working normally. By design, any appliance or equipment that heats up can be a potential hazard, so always put safety first when it comes to your furnace. Checking your heating system early in the heating season not only helps you know if there are problems now or on the horizon, but will save you money in the long run. Most all equipment manufactures recommend having your furnace checked by a qualified technician at least yearly. So after your basic check give ABT a call for a full inspection of your heating system. We’re offering an early bird tune-up special for only $79.00 from now until November 30th, regularly $149.00.

Call us today 530-272-9120

ABT Plumbing, Electric, Heating & Air Conditioning serves:

       Nevada County, Placer County, Grass Valley, Ca. Alta Sierra, Ca. Nevada City, Ca. Penn Valley, Ca. Rough and Ready, Ca. Lake Wildwood, Ca. Smartsville, Ca. Colfax, Auburn, Ca. Lake of the Pines, Ca. Meadow Vista, Ca. Newcastle, Ca. and all places in-between.


Our Primary Service Areas and Specialties:

Auburn, CA Plumbing     |     Auburn, CA Electrical     |     Auburn, CA Heat & Air

Grass Valley Plumbing     |     Grass Valley Electrical     |     Grass Valley Heat & Air

Penn Valley Plumbing     |     Penn Valley Electrical     |     Penn Valley Heat & Air

Click here for a list of all the towns and cities in our service area.

Copyright 2009 ABT Plumbing, Electric, Heat & Air