530-272-9120

Call Now for a Free Appointment

Archive for the ‘Plumbing Tips’ Category

Banging Pipes in Grass Valley, CA.

Monday, March 1st, 2010

Here’s a question that came to me from a client in Grass Valley Ca;

For a few months now, the water pipes in our house have been making this terrible noise like someone is beating on them with a hammer. It only happens when we use the sink in the guest bathroom. It’s driving my wife and I crazy, my wife is ready to sell the house and move

Banging Pipes,

Grass Valley, Ca.

 

 

Dear Banging Pipes in Grass Valley,

  This can be tricky. There are a couple things that can cause the water pipes to hammer. First I would check to see if the house has a pressure reducing valve on the water main. It would be installed somewhere along the main line either outside or just inside where the pipe enters the house. A pressure reducing valve uses a rubber diaphragm to regulate the incoming water pressure. Sometimes this diaphragm can become loose or worn and when water runs along it, it will vibrate like a reed on a wind instrument. The easiest way to solve the problem is to replace the pressure regulator with a new one. If this doesn’t solve the problem or if you don’t have a regulator you’ll want to install what’s called a pneumatic hammer arrester into the plumbing system. A hammer arrestor is a little shock absorber for your plumbing. You’ll want to install it as close as possible to the fixture that’s causing the problem. If the fixture is on the second floor you may need to open the drywall to get access to the piping. You’ll also want to take a look at the piping in the area around the problem fixture. There may be some loose pipes that will need to be strapped down. Hopefully this will help; water hammer can be a difficult and frustrating problem to solve. A lot of times I will start with the easiest thing and work my way through to the more difficult and expensive things. Sometimes solving difficult plumbing problems is just a process of elimination.

Water Hammering Pipes in Grass Valley, CA.

Tuesday, February 16th, 2010

Dear ABT,

 

For a few months now, the water pipes in our house have been making this terrible noise like someone is beating on them with a hammer. It only happens when we use the sink in the guest bathroom. It’s driving my wife and I crazy, my wife is ready to sell the house and move

Banging Pipes,

Grass Valley, Ca.

 

 

Dear Banging Pipes in Grass Valley, CA.

  This can be tricky. There are a couple things that can cause the water pipes to hammer. First I would check to see if the house has a pressure reducing valve on the water main. It would be installed somewhere along the main line either outside or just inside where the pipe enters the house. A pressure reducing valve uses a rubber diaphragm to regulate the incoming water pressure. Sometimes this diaphragm can become loose or worn and when water runs along it, it will vibrate like a reed on a wind instrument. The easiest way to solve the problem is to replace the pressure regulator with a new one. If this doesn’t solve the problem or if you don’t have a regulator you’ll want to install what’s called a pneumatic hammer arrester into the plumbing system. A hammer arrestor is a little shock absorber for your plumbing. You’ll want to install it as close as possible to the fixture that’s causing the problem. If the fixture is on the second floor you may need to open the drywall to get access to the piping. You’ll also want to take a look at the piping in the area around the problem fixture. There may be some loose pipes that will need to be strapped down. Hopefully this will help; water hammer can be a difficult and frustrating problem to solve. A lot of times I will start with the easiest thing and work my way through to the more difficult and expensive things. Sometimes solving difficult plumbing problems is just a process of elimination.

DIY Clearing a Drain In Nevada City, CA.

Tuesday, February 2nd, 2010

Dear Handy Andrew, 

The sink in our bathroom has been draining slowly for some time now and suddenly it just sort of stopped draining all together. What should I do? 

Thanks,

Stopped-Up

Nevada City, Ca.

  

Dear Stopped up in Nevada City,

  Keep a sharp eye out for signs of a sluggish drain. It’s easier to unclog a slow drain than it is to open a drain that has completely stopped. When the drain is slow, you can try a couple of easy things first. First try pouring scalding water down the drain to loosen any buildup of grease or soap scum. If that doesn’t help, you can clean the stopper, pop-up or drain screen. (This is not for the faint of heart.  My wife makes a funny face whenever I clean the pop-up.) If this doesn’t solve the problem, the next thing you’ll want to do is grab a plunger. If you don’t have a plunger, or if you have one of those silly little guys from the grocery store, go out and buy a good one.  Pick a plunger with a large enough suction cup to completely cover the drain and create an airtight seal against the surrounding sink. The one I use is black rubber with a yellow handle and has a cone on the bottom which can be folded up when I use it for clearing sinks or tubs. First cover the drain with the plunger and fill the sink with hot water and completely cover the suction cup. Seal off the overflow if you have one with a wet sponge or a rag. Push out any trapped air beneath the cup, and then give the plunger 5 to 10 vigorous up-and-down pumping strokes to jolt loose the clog. It may take 3 or 5 times to do the job. (One thing you should know is a plunger works with both the up and down stroke, so really tug up on it.)

 If none of this works you could try using a hand cranking snake, but let me tell you from my experience, they don’t work so well. They take a lot of effort with very little affect. You really need a good electric snake to do the job right. You may be able to rent one from the rental yard, but it helps if you know how to use it, they can be very dangerous to use.

 One other thing you can do before the drain gets clogged is to use an enzyme drain cleaning product. The enzymes help to digest the organic material and break it down to it basic element. It’s a great, environmentally safe product. And if you’re on a septic system the enzymes will work their way down into the tank and digest the gunk in the septic tank as well.

 If none of this works, well then I guess it’s time to call out the professionals.

Tankless Water Heaters in Grass Valley, Ca.

Tuesday, December 29th, 2009

 

Check:  www.energystar.gov — check site for qualifying replacement models and more details.

Odds are, somewhere in your house is a black hole that’s sucking down a constant stream of wasted energy, and wasted money.

If you’re like most homeowners, the main culprit is the hulking tank that’s constantly keeping water hot for whenever you might decide to jump in the shower.

“Water heaters are one of the most energy-consuming appliances in the home,” says Rich Wenzel of the Sustainability Network. They can account for 14 percent to 25 percent of the energy consumed in your home.

“They’re keeping 30 to 100 gallons of water at, say, 120 degrees 24 hours a day, 365 days a year — and therefore offer an area of significant savings,” he says.

The savings potential for most homeowners is now greater than ever, thanks to the Federal Tax Credits for Consumer Energy Efficiency.

In the case of water heaters, homeowners can get up to $1,500 back at tax time by installing a qualifying model (listed at energystar.gov). The tax credit covers 30 percent of the total cost — including installation.

Plumber Andrew Twidwell of ABT Plumbing, Electric, Heat & Air says most of the water heaters he sees in Grass Valley would be ideal candidates for replacement.

“Upgrading makes sense for anyone who has a water heater that is rated at less than 80 percent efficient. Most conventional water heaters you find in Nevada County have energy ratings of 52 percent,” he says. You can find your heater’s efficiency rating on the large yellow Energy Star sticker on the tank.

“On-demand, tankless gas water heaters are rated at above 80 percent and do not use energy when there is no demand for hot water, he says. Also, “tankless water heaters can easily exceed 20 years of use and maintain very high efficiency. Conventional water heaters average between 10 and 15 years in Auburn.”

Andrew says “the impact of this modest upgrade on a wide scale would be significant.”

“If most homeowners installed one of these hot water systems, the country as a whole would likely reap an overall energy savings of around 10 percent,” Andrew says. “With homeowners saving around 25 percent of their overall energy bills.”

Other tax credit options

Replacing your water heaters may be the most affordable, widely available way to take advantage of the tax credit — but it’s just one of several options. Tax credit incentives are also available for insulation, air conditioner replacement, furnaces and a number of other improvements.

A number variables determine whether it makes financial sense for a homeowner to invest in one of these options, says Ryan Jones of Home Inspections, a Grass Valley-based energy auditor.

First, he says, it depends on whether a homeowner is interested in helping save the environment or just saving money. If the latter, then most energy-efficiency upgrades will take at least a few years to pay for themselves in lower utility bills.

Insulation tends to pay for itself the most quickly — in four to seven years, Jones says. Woodstoves take longer at up to eight years if they’re used consistently — less if the wood is free.

In the case of roofs, windows and doors, Jones says it likely only makes sense to replace those once they’re worn out.

“If the windows and doors are moderately bad or not that bad, they will not be cost-effective to replace,” Jones says. And even if they’re very bad, they might not make sense to replace. “If the windows and doors are that old, the house probably has other areas that need improvement that would be more cost-effective.”

Nevertheless, Jones says the tax credit seems to be generating more replacement of windows and doors than any of the other energy-efficiency upgrades.

“HVAC has picked up some, but windows and doors picked up the most, because of window and door company advertising,” he says. “I think those are the only areas the tax credits have had much affect.”

No tax credit, but savings

It won’t make sense for many homeowners to take advantage of tax credits, Jones says. The upfront costs may be too high, or they may not plan on moving in a year or two. Regardless, he says there are several simple, cheap steps all homeowers can take to reduce their energy consumption — and their bills — now.

• Air-sealing the house by caulking exterior window frames and using foam weather stripping around leaking door jambs.

• Sealing air ducts — with a high-quality, aluminum-backed duct tape (not just ordinary duct tape), or with duct mastic, which does a better, longer lasting job.

• Hanging heavier drapes that extend to the floor over drafy windows.

• Using an insulating blanket on your tank water heater, and insulating foam around hot water lines.

ABT Was Quoted in The Union

Saturday, December 12th, 2009
Sunday’s snowstorm and subsequent hard freeze Monday and Tuesday nights took their toll on western Nevada County, with burst pipes, multiple vehicle accidents and inconveniences both minor and major.

But for some, icy roads sent business through the roof.

“We had all we could handle for about 20 hours a day,” said owner Kent Kilroy of Kilroy’s Towing.

Most common were calls from people sliding off their driveways, especially on the steep slopes in Alta Sierra, he said.

And when accidents did happen, auto body shops got the calls.

“We’ve had a lot of tow-ins and cars buried in the snow for a day,” said Nancy Maldonado, an estimator at Chris’ Collision Repair in Grass Valley.

The shop’s staff has seen the big accidents in the past few days, but is expecting business to stay steady — most people who had minor fender benders won’t bring the cars in until the roads improve.

Tuesday saw “lots of spinouts in the snow and ice, but nothing major,” said CHP Officer Eric Wagner. While the highways were clear Wednesday, many of the side roads still were problematic, with patches of black ice, said CHP spokeswoman Heather Blancarte.

“People are still driving way too fast,” she said. “Increase your distance and slow down.”

The county’s schools reopened Wednesday, despite the icy conditions. Many buses ran late Wednesday morning, leaving some students complaining about their wait in the bitter cold and some parents frustrated at the delays.

“It was slow going,” said Durham School Services operations supervisor Bill Locke. “There were some roads we couldn’t get down, but the county did a good job of sanding. We were running about a half-hour to 45 minutes behind on most routes.”

Some roads in the Wolf Creek and Dog Bar areas were covered in 6 to 8 inches of ice, with Cascade Shores being another problem area, Locke said. Communication problems between dispatch and bus drivers are typical for the more mountainous areas of the county where reception is spotty, he added.

“As ugly as it could have been, it was a pretty good day,” Locke said.

The emergency room at Sierra Nevada Memorial Hospital and the waiting room at Yuba Docs in Grass Valley saw a jump in injuries due to people slipping on the ice.

Between 25 percent and 30 percent of emergency room patients seen Tuesday had injured themselves in a fall, hospital staff reported. At Yuba Docs, staff saw more “bumps on the head” and even some fractures, they said.

 

The cost of a cold snap

It costs about half a million dollars annually to remove snow on western Nevada County roads, plus about $250,000 to maintain county roads near Truckee, according to Nevada County Public Works Director Doug Farrell.

The county employs a road maintenance crew of 30 and assigns them into two 12-hour shifts for around-the-clock snow removal when big storms hit.

Nevada Joint Union High School District already has used the two snow days it schedules into its annual budget. The district’s concern is possibly having to foot the bill if the winter brings more snow days.

In that case, the district will apply for a waiver from the state to avoid potentially costly make-up days.

But safety, not financial savings, comes first, Superintendent Ralf Swenson said.

“We would never let that influence our decision on whether or not we’ll have school,” he said.

 

Preparation pays off

B & C Hardware has been selling ice-melt products as fast as they could stock it, said Jeannie Nettles, who works in inventory control at the store. When ice melt sold out, they started selling lawn fertilizer, which warms itself, to thaw driveways and walkways.

All other seasonal merchandise has been flying off the shelves, too, Nettles said. That includes shovels, windshield de-icers, pipe insulation and lantern oil for power failures.

Hills Flat Lumber Company General Manager Jeff Pardini said a lot of people stopped in to pick up Pex Piping, a polymer pipe that doesn’t burst like metal piping. People install it where they have exposed pipes and it is getting more popular.

Customers also are picking up things like snow shovels, sand, flashlights, fire-starter logs and heat insulating tape.

“Most people are procrastinators; they didn’t come to get supplies until after (the storm),” Pardini said.

For those who didn’t wrap their pipes, Andrew Twidwell of ABT Plumbing was on call. He said he only sees freezes this bad every five to 10 years.

“We’ve got a lot of work with broken pipes, and we’re still reeling from that,” he said. “We’re doing triage — just stopping the bleeding and getting people back online.”

His advice to keep ice plugs from developing inside pipes: Leave a faucet on, and know where the water shut-off valve is to avoid a flood if a pipe does break.

To contact Staff Writer Kyle Magin, e-mail kmagin@theunion.com or call 477-4239. To contact Staff Writer Liz Kellar, e-mail lkellar@theunion.com or call 477-4229. To contact Staff Writer Michelle Rindels, e-mail mrindels@theunion.com or call (530) 477-4247.

Defective Water Heater Puts Hole In Roof

Monday, December 7th, 2009

Water heater blasts off from basement to sky

Johnna Bruner, 19, stands beside holes that an exploding water heater left in the floor and ceiling of her home on Greensprings Drive.
Wednesday, July 9, 2003 3:40 PM PDT
Published July 9, 2003

*
Johnna Bruner was fast asleep when an explosion ripped through her home on Greensprings Drive in the middle of the night.

It was a malfunctioning water heater, which built up pressure until it turned into a bomb that rocketed up from the basement, ripped a hole in the living room floor, and vaulted through the ceiling to land on the roof next to the satellite dish.

The explosion that occurred about 1 a.m. June 30 shook the house off its foundation and left its contents in tatters.

Bruner and her fiance, Casey McClin, considered themselves lucky to have survived.

“We were in a water bed at the time and [the explosion] sort of tidal waved us out,” said Bruner, who lives in the 2100 block of Greensprings Drive. “There was so much steam in the living room we thought there was a fire.”

Klamath County plumbing inspector Dennis Stone said he was surprised at the damage caused by the 20-gallon water heater.

“I’ve been in the trade going on 33 years and I’ve never seen anything like it,” Stone said “It looked like a bunker-buster bomb went off in there, like in Iraq.”

According to Stone, the pressure release valve on the water heater either corroded shut or failed altogether. When the thermostat continued to function, pressure built up inside the heater until it burst.

“We’d heard some godawful noises about an hour before it happened,” Bruner said. “So we went down and read the instructions on the water heater and it said to turn the water breaker off, so we did.”

Around 1 a.m., the water heater blasted off from its spot in the basement, tore through the living room floor and ceiling, just feet from the sleeping Bruner and McClin. The heater then landed above the porch, knocking down the chimney in the process.

The heater was hot enough to create steam, meaning it was at least 220 degrees. Melted insulation was found throughout the house.

When the heater initially exploded, a wave of pressure blew the garage door onto Green Springs Drive. According to Stone, this may have saved Bruner and McClin.

“They told us that if the garage door wasn’t there, we’d be dead,” Bruner said. “It was such a crappy garage door it blew out instead of blowing us up.”

“The two people in there were lucky,” Stone said. “Most of the pressure went out instead of up into the house. It still moved walls off the foundation.”

Damage estimates to the property have yet to be determined by insurance companies. Bruner said that she and her fiance lost more than $26,000 in the accident.

Exploding water heaters are rare but not unheard of, according to Stone.

“It’s not common, but when it does happen it’s pretty damaging,” Stone said. “It’s something that people just don’t think about. If the right circumstances hit, this is what happens.”

Homeowners can prevent their water heaters from exploding with proper maintenance.

“If somebody has a heater that’s 10 to 15 years old, they should check it’s condition and maybe think about replacing it,” Stone said. “A replacement is really pretty reasonable in cost. If people are leery about what they need to do, a licensed plumber can give them an estimate.”

Stone said that newer water heaters have more advanced pressure release valves. Any time a used water heater is resold, the release valve is replaced.

“Sometimes people see that their release valve is leaking, so instead of replacing it, they clog it,” Stone said. “They’ve just made themselves a bomb.”

Meanwhile, Bruner and McClin are staying with relatives until they can find a permanent home.

“Usually when you think of an water heater blowing up you think of some water flooding a basement,” Bruner said. “But this literally blew up.”

Reporter Rob McCallum can be reached at 885-4413 or (800) 275-0982, or by e-mail at rmccallum@heraldandnews.com.

Defective heater puts hole in roof

By ROB McCALLUM

H&N Staff Writer

The Bomb in Your Basement AKA Your Water Heater

Monday, December 7th, 2009

The Bomb In Your Basement, Exploding Water Heater

This kinda thing happens to someone every year. Make sure the water heater in your garage is installed correctly.

Do It Yourself Plumbing Repair

Monday, December 7th, 2009

Do It Yourself Plumbing Repair

 

As an Auburn, Ca homeowner the most common DIY plumbing repair problems you will run into can be categorized as clogs, drips, and/or leaks. Each category will be described below along with a number (but by no means all) of the possible causes, their level of severity, and a brief analysis of how difficult a repair job it will be to address.

In their mildest form, these problems will be relatively easy for the beginner to address. They will typically require no specialized plumbing tools and no special skills. As the severity of the problems increase, the tools and plumbing skills required also increases. For severe problems like broken pipes or clogged drain lines or those that require special tools or skills, it is usually best to call in the professionals, like us ABT Plumbing, Electric, Heat & Air. Before starting a DIY plumbing repair project it is a good idea to assess your skills – if you are not confident that you can finish the job, you should not start it (yet). Unless of course you don’t mind emergency service charges.

Clogs: The description of a clog is simple – the water in your sink, toilet, tub, or shower drains slowly or not at all.

Simple – An example of a simple clog is one where the water still drains however it may drain more slowly than other drains in your home. Simple clogs may be a result of something as simple as a plugged up strainer or drain plug.
Moderate – With a moderate clog the water may drain at a trickle or not at all. The difference between a moderate clog and a server clog is accessibility to the problem area. As long as you have access to the problem area, this is still a pretty good DIY plumbing repair for the novice handyman.
Severe – Water is not draining at all or worse is backing up where it should not be them you have a larger problem. Unless you have the right tools and some experience with this type of problem it is time to call in the professionals, ABT Plumbing, Electric, Heating & Air Conditioning.

Drips: This category includes any area where water continues to run once you have “turned it off” – this would also include a toilet that continues to run.

Simple – A simple drip in your Auburn home may be nothing more than the faucet handles not being turned off tightly or having a little play to it.
Moderate – With a moderate leak you cannot (and should not force) the handle tight enough to stop the leak. A second example of this type of “drip” is. The repair may be as simple as replacing a washer or could require that you replace the entire fixture. While some repairs of this type will require special tools (such as a basin wrench), the more important factor is often the access to the problem.
Severe – When the fixture to be repaired is not readily accessible (such as a tub or shower fixture) it is probably a good idea to call in the professionals, ABT Plumbing, Electric, Heating & Air Conditoning – not only because of the problems of working in a tight space but because the consequences of an incorrectly completed repair may not be visible right away. You don’t want to install a faucet in your shower only to find out you did it incorrectly when water starts to leak through the ceiling of the floor below.

Leaks: These are the most time sensitive of Auburn home plumbing repair problems because if ignored, it can cause damage. Depending on where it is, leaks could be the easiest and cheapest or the most difficult and expensive DIY plumbing repair project you attempt.

Simple – This category will usually include the obvious and easily addressed repairs. Examples would include loose compression fittings and worn washers or bushings. These repairs rarely require more than a standard replacement part and a common open-end or crescent wrench. In many cases you don’t even need to turn off the water supply to work on them.
Moderate – Usually, this level of repair will require that you turn off the water and could get messy (keep the sponges and mop handy). If you are working with compression, slip, or threaded fittings they should be well within the capabilities of the Auburn home handyman.
Severe – If soldering, sweating, or cementing is involved or if access to the leak is limited then you are probably looking at a job for an experienced plumbing service like us at ABT Plumbing, Electric Heating and Air Condition.

Is A Tankless Water Heater A Good Idea For My Auburn, Ca Home?

Monday, December 7th, 2009

Is a Tankless a good idea for my Auburn, Ca home?

I’ve been installing and servicing tankless water heater for over 12 years. People ask me questions all the time like, is a tankless a good idea for my Grass Valley, or Auburn Ca, home, do they work for the whole house, etc. It really depends on the application. If you want to save energy, and have endless hot water they’re great. If you want to save money, it gets a little more complicated. If you have a large water heater like a 75 gallon or larger, a large family, or family that come to visit often, they will save you money. But if there are only 2 people in the home and you have a 40 gallon water heater, it will take a while to pay for its self in energy savings. All though with the 30% Federal Tax Credit the pay back is a lot quicker than it used to be. The best thing is to have a Licensed plumber who has experience with tankless water heaters come out and give you an idea of cost. Be sure the plumber has experience though, the only time we’ve seen problems with tankless water heaters is installation issues. Tankless is a good choice, do some research, call an experienced plumber, and enjoy the benifits of endless hot water and energy efficiency.

DIY Installing A Toilet In Your Auburn Home

Sunday, November 29th, 2009
Installing a new toilet in your Auburn home is relatively easy for the handy person. Here are few steps that can help, and it can be completed in about one day.Selecting a new toilet:

In the United States, new toilets must allow for only one & a half gallons of water per flush. This not only saves the environment with every flush, it also saves you $ each month on your Auburn water bill. You will find that most local building codes require these new toilets. It is always best to check with your local Auburn DPW before installing the new toilet. The only thing left is to choose a style and color that best suits your needs and interior design scheme of your bathroom. A little word from the wise, do not buy the cheapest toilet you can find. They will only be a headache, like clog all the time. You should expect to pay at least around $100 bucks for a decent WC.

Okay, let’s get started:

If you are installing a toilet in Your Auburn home where one did not exist before you can skip this part. Replacing an old toilet has only a couple of extra steps from installing a toilet in a new location. Like removing the old toilet.

Before you go and try to remove the old toilet, you need to be sure the water has been shut off. Behind and to the left of the toilet is the water shut off valve. If you remember the old phrase, “Righty Tighty- Lefty Lucy”, you should be able to know which way to turn the valve to turn the water supply off. Turn to the right to close the valve. You will need to be sure the water is turned off and you will need to empty the tank, so flush the toilet twice. This helps to ensure you got most of the water out. There will be a bit of remaining water in the tank so have towels or news paper on the floor to help mop up the water when the tank is removed. A sponge will to get the remaining water out of the tank and bowl.

Removing the old tank:

Follow the water supply cut off valve to the tank of the toilet. Take an adjustable wrench and loosen the supply tubing on the coupling nut.  

Once you have the water supply disconnected, it is time to remove the tank. With the same technique you just used to remove the supply line, you need to hold the mounting bolt nut under the tank, while inside the tank you unscrew the mounting bolt from the main body of the toilet. This will release the tank. Simply set the tank on the floor with some form of cushion to protect your floor. Newspaper or old towels will do just fine.

Next you will need to remove the floor bolts that hold the main toilet body to the floor. This can be difficult, sometimes the bolt will just spin. When this happens to me I use my hammer and break the toilet at the base, it’s messy but effective. Once you have these off, it is time to pull the toilet off the floor. The toilet is attached not only by the floor bolts, but also by adhesive. You will need to rock the toilet back and forth while leaning it forward to pry it loose.

Once the old toilet has been removed stuff a rag into the exposed pipe. This helps keep the sewer gasses from entering the room and keeps objects from falling into it. You can use a paint scraper or putty knife to scrape the old adhesive remains from the floor and pipe gasket. Try to clean as well as possible as this will help with better adhesion for the new toilet.

Installing a new toilet:

If you are installing a toilet where there wasn’t one before, water pipes and a drain line will need to be installed. You will need to call a professional Auburn plumber to do this for you as it is very involved and dangerous. Once you have ABT Plumbing, Electric, Heat & Air install the pipes, installing the new toilet is a snap!

Lay some newspaper or old towels on the floor to protect it. Un-box the new toilet and install the tank to the bowl. Next install new closet bolts to the toilet flange, it’s best if you have an extra set of nuts and washers so you can snug the bolts on to the flange. Next install the new wax ring to the flange.

Take the new toilet and set it over the flange, guide the bolts through the holes in the bowl. Once it’s set, rock the toilet back and forth this will help squeeze down the wax and insure a good seal. With a level on top of the bowl, slowly tighten the floor bolts. You want the bowl to be tight to the floor, but not too tight as to crack the porcelain of the bowl. If you are unable to level the bowl and have the floor bolts tight at the same time, you may need small plastic shims to level the bowl.

 The only thing left is to hook up the water supply. Take the water supply nut and screw to the bottom of the tank. Turn the water supply valve back on and flush! Congratulations! You have just installed your first toilet!


Our Primary Service Areas and Specialties:

Auburn, CA Plumbing     |     Auburn, CA Electrical     |     Auburn, CA Heat & Air

Grass Valley Plumbing     |     Grass Valley Electrical     |     Grass Valley Heat & Air

Penn Valley Plumbing     |     Penn Valley Electrical     |     Penn Valley Heat & Air

Click here for a list of all the towns and cities in our service area.

Copyright 2009 ABT Plumbing, Electric, Heat & Air