The Bomb In Your Basement, Exploding Water Heater
This kinda thing happens to someone every year. Make sure the water heater in your garage is installed correctly.
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Archive for the ‘Plumbing Tips’ Category
The Bomb in Your Basement AKA Your Water Heater
Monday, December 7th, 2009Do It Yourself Plumbing Repair
Monday, December 7th, 2009Do It Yourself Plumbing Repair
As an Auburn, Ca homeowner the most common DIY plumbing repair problems you will run into can be categorized as clogs, drips, and/or leaks. Each category will be described below along with a number (but by no means all) of the possible causes, their level of severity, and a brief analysis of how difficult a repair job it will be to address.
In their mildest form, these problems will be relatively easy for the beginner to address. They will typically require no specialized plumbing tools and no special skills. As the severity of the problems increase, the tools and plumbing skills required also increases. For severe problems like broken pipes or clogged drain lines or those that require special tools or skills, it is usually best to call in the professionals, like us ABT Plumbing, Electric, Heat & Air. Before starting a DIY plumbing repair project it is a good idea to assess your skills – if you are not confident that you can finish the job, you should not start it (yet). Unless of course you don’t mind emergency service charges.
Clogs: The description of a clog is simple – the water in your sink, toilet, tub, or shower drains slowly or not at all.
Simple – An example of a simple clog is one where the water still drains however it may drain more slowly than other drains in your home. Simple clogs may be a result of something as simple as a plugged up strainer or drain plug.
Moderate – With a moderate clog the water may drain at a trickle or not at all. The difference between a moderate clog and a server clog is accessibility to the problem area. As long as you have access to the problem area, this is still a pretty good DIY plumbing repair for the novice handyman.
Severe – Water is not draining at all or worse is backing up where it should not be them you have a larger problem. Unless you have the right tools and some experience with this type of problem it is time to call in the professionals, ABT Plumbing, Electric, Heating & Air Conditioning.
Drips: This category includes any area where water continues to run once you have “turned it off” – this would also include a toilet that continues to run.
Simple – A simple drip in your Auburn home may be nothing more than the faucet handles not being turned off tightly or having a little play to it.
Moderate – With a moderate leak you cannot (and should not force) the handle tight enough to stop the leak. A second example of this type of “drip” is. The repair may be as simple as replacing a washer or could require that you replace the entire fixture. While some repairs of this type will require special tools (such as a basin wrench), the more important factor is often the access to the problem.
Severe – When the fixture to be repaired is not readily accessible (such as a tub or shower fixture) it is probably a good idea to call in the professionals, ABT Plumbing, Electric, Heating & Air Conditoning – not only because of the problems of working in a tight space but because the consequences of an incorrectly completed repair may not be visible right away. You don’t want to install a faucet in your shower only to find out you did it incorrectly when water starts to leak through the ceiling of the floor below.
Leaks: These are the most time sensitive of Auburn home plumbing repair problems because if ignored, it can cause damage. Depending on where it is, leaks could be the easiest and cheapest or the most difficult and expensive DIY plumbing repair project you attempt.
Simple – This category will usually include the obvious and easily addressed repairs. Examples would include loose compression fittings and worn washers or bushings. These repairs rarely require more than a standard replacement part and a common open-end or crescent wrench. In many cases you don’t even need to turn off the water supply to work on them.
Moderate – Usually, this level of repair will require that you turn off the water and could get messy (keep the sponges and mop handy). If you are working with compression, slip, or threaded fittings they should be well within the capabilities of the Auburn home handyman.
Severe – If soldering, sweating, or cementing is involved or if access to the leak is limited then you are probably looking at a job for an experienced plumbing service like us at ABT Plumbing, Electric Heating and Air Condition.
Is A Tankless Water Heater A Good Idea For My Auburn, Ca Home?
Monday, December 7th, 2009Is a Tankless a good idea for my Auburn, Ca home?
I’ve been installing and servicing tankless water heater for over 12 years. People ask me questions all the time like, is a tankless a good idea for my Grass Valley, or Auburn Ca, home, do they work for the whole house, etc. It really depends on the application. If you want to save energy, and have endless hot water they’re great. If you want to save money, it gets a little more complicated. If you have a large water heater like a 75 gallon or larger, a large family, or family that come to visit often, they will save you money. But if there are only 2 people in the home and you have a 40 gallon water heater, it will take a while to pay for its self in energy savings. All though with the 30% Federal Tax Credit the pay back is a lot quicker than it used to be. The best thing is to have a Licensed plumber who has experience with tankless water heaters come out and give you an idea of cost. Be sure the plumber has experience though, the only time we’ve seen problems with tankless water heaters is installation issues. Tankless is a good choice, do some research, call an experienced plumber, and enjoy the benifits of endless hot water and energy efficiency.
DIY Installing A Toilet In Your Auburn Home
Sunday, November 29th, 2009| Installing a new toilet in your Auburn home is relatively easy for the handy person. Here are few steps that can help, and it can be completed in about one day.Selecting a new toilet:
In the United States, new toilets must allow for only one & a half gallons of water per flush. This not only saves the environment with every flush, it also saves you $ each month on your Auburn water bill. You will find that most local building codes require these new toilets. It is always best to check with your local Auburn DPW before installing the new toilet. The only thing left is to choose a style and color that best suits your needs and interior design scheme of your bathroom. A little word from the wise, do not buy the cheapest toilet you can find. They will only be a headache, like clog all the time. You should expect to pay at least around $100 bucks for a decent WC. Okay, let’s get started: If you are installing a toilet in Your Auburn home where one did not exist before you can skip this part. Replacing an old toilet has only a couple of extra steps from installing a toilet in a new location. Like removing the old toilet. Before you go and try to remove the old toilet, you need to be sure the water has been shut off. Behind and to the left of the toilet is the water shut off valve. If you remember the old phrase, “Righty Tighty- Lefty Lucy”, you should be able to know which way to turn the valve to turn the water supply off. Turn to the right to close the valve. You will need to be sure the water is turned off and you will need to empty the tank, so flush the toilet twice. This helps to ensure you got most of the water out. There will be a bit of remaining water in the tank so have towels or news paper on the floor to help mop up the water when the tank is removed. A sponge will to get the remaining water out of the tank and bowl. Removing the old tank: Follow the water supply cut off valve to the tank of the toilet. Take an adjustable wrench and loosen the supply tubing on the coupling nut. Once you have the water supply disconnected, it is time to remove the tank. With the same technique you just used to remove the supply line, you need to hold the mounting bolt nut under the tank, while inside the tank you unscrew the mounting bolt from the main body of the toilet. This will release the tank. Simply set the tank on the floor with some form of cushion to protect your floor. Newspaper or old towels will do just fine. Next you will need to remove the floor bolts that hold the main toilet body to the floor. This can be difficult, sometimes the bolt will just spin. When this happens to me I use my hammer and break the toilet at the base, it’s messy but effective. Once you have these off, it is time to pull the toilet off the floor. The toilet is attached not only by the floor bolts, but also by adhesive. You will need to rock the toilet back and forth while leaning it forward to pry it loose. Once the old toilet has been removed stuff a rag into the exposed pipe. This helps keep the sewer gasses from entering the room and keeps objects from falling into it. You can use a paint scraper or putty knife to scrape the old adhesive remains from the floor and pipe gasket. Try to clean as well as possible as this will help with better adhesion for the new toilet. Installing a new toilet: If you are installing a toilet where there wasn’t one before, water pipes and a drain line will need to be installed. You will need to call a professional Auburn plumber to do this for you as it is very involved and dangerous. Once you have ABT Plumbing, Electric, Heat & Air install the pipes, installing the new toilet is a snap! Lay some newspaper or old towels on the floor to protect it. Un-box the new toilet and install the tank to the bowl. Next install new closet bolts to the toilet flange, it’s best if you have an extra set of nuts and washers so you can snug the bolts on to the flange. Next install the new wax ring to the flange. Take the new toilet and set it over the flange, guide the bolts through the holes in the bowl. Once it’s set, rock the toilet back and forth this will help squeeze down the wax and insure a good seal. With a level on top of the bowl, slowly tighten the floor bolts. You want the bowl to be tight to the floor, but not too tight as to crack the porcelain of the bowl. If you are unable to level the bowl and have the floor bolts tight at the same time, you may need small plastic shims to level the bowl. The only thing left is to hook up the water supply. Take the water supply nut and screw to the bottom of the tank. Turn the water supply valve back on and flush! Congratulations! You have just installed your first toilet! |
DIY Caulking A Tub/Shower in Your Auburn Home
Monday, November 23rd, 2009| DIY Caulking a Tub and or Shower:It’s important to properly caulk around bathtubs and shower in-closers in your Auburn home. Improperly sealed joints can cause damage to the structure behind the tile or fiberglass. Water can seep behind showers and bathtubs, ruining floorboards and walls. Also, unhealthy and dangerous forms of mold and mildew can form. Prevent damage from water and moisture by replacing missing and worn caulking around bath tubs and showers.It’s important to know why caulk fails so you can avoid future problems. Caulk can fail because of improper application as well as repeated contact with solvents and humidity. It can also fail because the wrong type of caulk may have been used to begin with. It’s important to use waterproof caulking made especially for application around bathtubs and showers. Doing so will ensure a long-lasting waterproof seal.
Before you begin, it’s very important to completely remove the old caulking material. New silicone caulk will not stick to old silicone caulk. Also, the finished job will look much nicer if all the old caulking material has been properly removed. Solvents are available at your local Auburn hardware store to aid in the removal of old caulking material. Follow the directions on the solvent, and use a plastic caulk removing tool or a plastic scrapper to remove the old caulk. If necessary, carefully scrape off any remaining caulk with a razor blade. Use caution when scrapping off the old caulk so you don’t damage the surface you are working on. After most of the old caulking material has been dislodged, remove any remaining caulk using non-abrasive cleanser. Be sure to thoroughly rinse the areas where the new caulk will be applied. Dry the areas, and go over them with rubbing alcohol. Use paper toweling or absorbent rags to dry the areas one last time. A hair dryer can be useful to completely dry the area. To make the caulk line as even as possible around a bathtub or shower, mark off the area to be caulked with masking tape. Doing so will ensure professional looking results, and clean up will be a breeze. If you’re caulking a bathtub, fill it with water before beginning. The added weight will pull away the seams where the tub connects to the wall. Without the added weight, the bathtub caulk will crack and pull away from the wall the first time it is filled with water. When applying the caulk, it’s also a good idea to get into the bathtub to increase the weight. You can apply either caulking material designed for use with a caulking gun, or you can apply the type that comes in a squeeze tube. Carefully cut the tip off the caulking material so the bead will be appropriately sized. Using continuous steady pressure, follow the seams around all areas where water can seep through. Make the size of the caulk line as even as possible. Applying gently pressure to the caulking gun handle or tube will help keep the bead uniform in size. When all areas have been caulked, use a wet finger or smoothing tool to fill in any remaining gaps. Allow the caulk to dry for at least 24 hours before getting it wet. That’s it, you have all the information you need to seal that annoying leak. We find that about 80% of tub or shower leaks we go out to diagnose are just a bad caulking joint and not a plumbing leak. Give it a shot it could save you from the expense of a service call. If it doesn’t work and you still have a leak in your Auburn home, give us a call. ABT Plumbing, Electric, Heat & Air 530-272-9120 |
DIY Leaky Pipe Repair for Your Auburn Home
Sunday, November 22nd, 2009DIY Pipe Repair for Your Auburn Home:
Leaks along a pipe are the easiest to locate and generally the fastest to repair. Pipe clamps are an effective way to temporarily fix a leaking pipe in your Auburn home. They consist of a neoprene sleeve and screw hinge. You insert the rubber gasket the kit between the pipe and the clamp and slowly tighten the screws or bolts until the leak stops. This is only a Band-Aid and should not be seen as a permanent repair. If the pipe is leaking it usually means there is a bigger problem, like old and worn out plumbing. Or it could have something to do with your water. We often see high PH levels in our area. High PH refers to the water being slightly acidic which slowly eats away at your pipes. These are two problems you’ll probably want to call in a professional in to help remedy.
Another way to patch a leak on a pipe is to apply plumber’s two part epoxy putty around the leaky joint. This method is not as effective as a line-clamp repair made on a straight section of pipe and will not make a proper bond if your pipe is rusty.
MORE THAN A DRIPPY LEAK
If your pipe is leaking more than an occasional drip the problem is more serious and you’ll want to call in a professional plumber. Do not assume that the leak will fix itself or diminish over time. Leaks generally lead to bigger problems and could result in an expensive flood and repair bill if not taken care right away. Give us a call; ABT Plumbing, Electric, Heat & Air: 530-272-9120
DIY Faucet Repair for Your Auburn Home
Sunday, November 22nd, 2009DIY Faucet Repair:
Always start any plumbing repairs on your Auburn home by turning off the water shut off valve to your home so you can work on the pipes without the fear of flooding your Auburn home.
FAUCET LEAKS:
Bathroom and kitchen faucets will often leak due to the washer or O-ring wearing out. Washer are usually made of rubber. The washers are discs that seal and restrict the flow of water when the handle is turned. This type of faucet is known as a compression faucet or rising stem faucet. To replace a washer, remove the decorative cap to get to the screw that attaches the handle to the faucet. Next remove the handle. Then unscrew the packing nut that holds the valve in place by turning it counterclockwise.
Valve washers come in many various sizes and shapes, plus both flat and beveled. I would suggest that you take the valve stem with you to the hardware store to match the exact size needed. An even better idea is to simply replace the whole valve stem. After replacing the washer or the valve stem and your faucet still leaks, the seat may have been damaged.
FIXING A DAMAGED VALVE SEAT:
If the washer has become too worn prior to replacement, the metal will grind against metal and damage the valve seat. Water particles and mineral deposits can become trapped between the seat and the washer so that closing and opening the faucet handle grinds the particles inside and damages the seal beyond simple washer replacement.
Most local Auburn hardware stores have a seat-grinding tool that is commercially available for do-it-yourself (DIY) home repair. The tool comes with easy steps on how to reshape the damaged seat to accept the new washer properly. Now you know the basics on how to repair that leaking faucet in your Auburn home. As always, if you run in to any problems and have some questions and/or need some help, please feel free to call us; ABT Plumbing, Electric, Heat & Air: 530-272-9120
How to Install Heat Tape on the Pipes of your Grass Valley Home.
Monday, November 2nd, 2009Installing heat tape on your pipes during the winter months can save you hundreds of dollars from burst water lines to flooded homes in Grass Valley. These simple steps will help protect your exposed pipes during winter and help prevent a pipe from bursting in your Grass Valley home.
Step 1. Purchase more heat tape than you think you need. The last thing you want to realize is that you don’t have enough tape when you are almost finished with the job. Measure your exposed pipes and make sure to buy a little bit extra. You can find heat tape at all your local Grass Valley hardware stores.
Step 2. Place the heat tape around the pipes. You can either lay it in a straight line ( my personal recomendation) or you can wrap it like the handle on a baseball bat. If you plan to wrap it, make sure to calculate in enough length to accommodate the wrapping.
Step 3. Protect the heat tape. Even though the tape will protect your pipes form bursting, nothing is protecting the tape itself. It is generally a good idea to protect it with insulation this will help keep the heat around the pipe.
Step 4. Plug in the tape and set the thermostat if installed. Make sure to use the heat tape only when you need to. If the temperature is above freezing then you can unplug your heat tape.
That’s all there is to it. This is a great way to keep all those exposed pipes in your Grass Valley home from bursting. If you have any comments, please leave them here. If you need any help or would like us to come out and install it for you, give us a call at 530-272-9120.
HOW DO SEPTIC TANKS WORK IN OUR GRASS VALLEY HOMES?
Monday, October 26th, 2009This is some information I found on the El Dorado County home page that I felt could be very helpful to our clients. Please take a look and let me know if you would like more information like this made avaialble on this site.
HOW DO SEPTIC TANKS WORK IN OUR GRASS VALLEY HOMES?
In the past, wastewater treatment and disposal facilities for homes in Grass Valley with indoor plumbing consisted of buried bottomless containers, or cesspools. Discharge of both solids and liquids to the soils caused the soil pores to clog, and contaminated water entered surface waters and groundwater. Therefore, to protect the soils and reduce public health hazards, septic tanks were installed between the houses and the soil absorption systems. Septic tanks are watertight containers which remove large solids and greases, provide anaerobic digestion of the solids, and storage of the sludge and scum. Septic tanks do not remove large numbers of bacteria and viruses. Septic tanks are constructed of concrete, bricks, clay, or fiberglass. Baffles are placed within the tank to improve solids settling and prevent the scum layer of lightweight solids, fats and greases from floating out of the tank with the effluent. The settled solids are biologically digested by bacteria which live in environments without air (anaerobic bacteria). Some of the products of anaerobic digestion are gases, including methane, carbon dioxide, and hydrogen sulfide, which has an odor similar to that of rotten eggs. The gases are vented from the septic tank through the household plumbing vents. Inorganic and non-biodegradable materials cannot be digested by the microorganisms in the septic tank, and accumulate in the sludge or digested by the microorganisms in the septic tank, and accumulate in the sludge or scum layers. The sludge and scum layers must be removed periodically to prevent the accumulated solids and greases from flowing into the soil absorption system and clogging the soil pores. If washing machines, dishwashers, and garbage disposals are used, the amount of sludge will increase and the septic tank will require frequent cleaning.
This information was pulled from the El Dorado County home page. If you want more information please click here for the full article.
A Simple DIY All Natural Recipe for Unclogging Drains
Monday, October 26th, 2009A Simple DIY All Natural Recipe for Unclogging Drains in your Grass Valley Home
- Remove all water from the sink or tub and pour about 1 cup baking soda down the drain.
- Then pour 1 cup vinegar down the drain, plugging it immediately (if you’re unclogging a double sink, plug both drains).
- When the bubbles have died down (about 30 minutes), chase them down the drain with some hot water.
If this recipe seems familiar to you, you may have as I did (at one point in your school days) used this recipe to make an erupting volcano for science class. Baking soda, a base, combined with vinegar, an acid, reacts to form carbon dioxide and sodium acetate—the bubbles that do the scrubbing work inside the drain. Once drain sludge is dissolved, these all natural, non-toxic ingredients get flushed down the now clog-free drain and will do no harm to your plumbing and or septic tank.
Baking soda and vinegar as you know are natural ingredients preferable to the manufactured chemical sodium hydroxide, also known as caustic soda or lye. Sodium hydroxide is the active ingredient in most grocery store drain cleaners. While the chemical isn’t too harmful for the environment since it’s broken down by the time it flows into oceans and rivers, it can be harmful to whomever it touches. And it can do a nasty number on the working of your septic tank.
According to the Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry, sodium hydroxide can burn skin. If swallowed, it can cause chest and abdominal pain, and has the potential to lead to death if it severely damages the lungs, tissue, or causes a loss of pulse or shock.
Baking soda and vinegar are common, consumable (though perhaps not together!) ingredients that don’t pose health dangers and are probably already sitting in your kitchen cupboards.
And hey if the home remedies don’t work you can always call ABT and well be right out. 530-272-9120
